Covet This

Housewares From a New Online Boutique

Left: the entrance hall of Ogata Paris at 16, rue Debelleyme. Right: tableware from Ogata in porcelain, ceramic and iron.
Credit: Courtesy of Ogata

Though Shinichiro Ogata’s portfolio is wide-ranging — he is a chef and restaurateur, a designer and an architect — everything he does is in pursuit of saho, or the Japanese art of being. Nowhere is that plainer to see than at Ogata Paris, which opened in a former hôtel particulier in the Marais in December of 2019. Inside the impeccably renovated space, visitors can sit in the bar, restaurant or tea salon, or they can browse art, tea blends, sweets and a whole host of housewares to take with them when they go. Now — and rather conveniently, given current travel restrictions — many of those same items can be purchased via Ogata Paris’s new online boutique. There, too, the breadth of Ogata’s creative vision is on display, but to my mind a hammered-pewter chirori, or sake server; a delicate lacquered-paper plate; and a vibrant selection of hitokuchi-gashi — bite-size confections such as a candied chestnut wrapped in bean paste and served with tea — are among the highlights. For Ogata, tea is a way of fostering human encounters — “a medium [through which] to meet people and share our sensitivity,” he wrote via a translator — but even in times when those encounters are necessarily fewer and farther between, we can still find a bit of comfort by seeking beauty. onlinestore.ogata.com.

Originally published February 18, 2021 on nytimes.com

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